(Also- Click the Category button for UBC Garden Design, about 10 Videos). Project Coloring Advice: Hi there! I have put some of the demonstrations I did for my drafting and design communication class on my VIDEO Blog.. They were done in a hurry, standing on one leg, in very uncomfortable circumstances, but still, they are ‘good enough for rock and roll’. I would use them for a residential client …(Continued Below Video):
….. in a preliminary design presentation. YOU should be able to do at least this well with a little effort if you pay attention to the step by step “METHOD”. I use felts, then color pencils, then chalk pastels. You might elect to do it all in colored pencil. MAKE A BACK-UP COPY or several once you have enhanced the lineweights. I use T.R.Trades Reprographics on 4th Ave Vancouver. But I am sure there are several companies that can print large sheets. Work on the copies or the original if confident. Note that felt pens may melt the toner lines on copies depending on how the copies were made or what the felt pens use as solvent. You have to experiment. Don’t leave it to the last minute. Take your time and have fun:
Step One – Enhance the LINE WEIGHTS. See the video on enhancing plan lineweights. I like to use Pilot Fineliners, mostly available at London Drugs locally, but any will do. Be CAREFUL TO TEST the fineline felt pens with your gray and color felts. Careful – some black pens melt into color felt pens!!! Generally, pencil work is too weak and will almost disappear when you add color. But pencil may be OK for paving joints. I aim for legibility at 10 feet.
Step Two – create tonal shapes of the greenscape using neutral GRAY FELT PENS (lighter on lawns, slightly darker on shrubs), making the hard landscape pop out bright and clear. I used only two neutral gray felts, number 2 and 4 (I prefer Copic markers these days, but any will do. Experiment in the store.
Step Three – Add GREEN FELT PEN to all greenscape ON TOP OF THE GRAY, keeps it subtle I used only one color, Yellowish Green, but experiment with any light green. The gray undertone keeps it subtle..
Step Four – Add COLOR PENCIL work to pump up individual plants and trees, making them richer. Remember to try doing an overall glaze with fleshtone , or light yellow and pink combined to give it a warm, friendly feel. I recommend getting a cheap box set and then buying individual colors when you know what you tend to use most often. I tend to use light yellow, pink, fleshtone,, yellow-green, dark green, red, light blue, dark blue, tan and brown. Dark gray and black can occasionally be handy. Most SMALL box sets would have all of these.
Step Five – FINISHING TOUCHES –Re-emphasize some line-work as needed. Add chalk pastel, called SOFT PASTEL (not oil pastel) to add gleams or tone down some areas if necessary. I recommend white, light gray and light blue.
Yes, I could do something similar with a computer (Autocad, Sketchup. Photoshop) and, of course, many do. By the way, there is a large learning curve to that, too. On the other hand, I can do it faster by hand and I believe that clients appreciate the softer look, indicating that their Garden Design will receive the same personal touch. I photograph the resulting rendering with my smartphone under decent lights. ). I can always modify in Photoshop if necessary. I make 8/12 x 11 or 11 x 17 copies, either myself or at a small print shop, even Staples (make sure they are cooperative and care about making you happy with the print quality. Experiment. Develop your system. Don’t leave it to the last minute! Have fun!